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Corvina is a general name for a boatload (pardon
the expression) of fish found in many different parts of the world. They belong
to the scaienidae family, which is better known as "drums or croakers."
Drum fish and croaker fish are differentiated by whether they produce a drumming
sound or a croaking sound when they pop their heads above the water (we're not
making this up). There are 270 species within the drums and croakers family,
ranging from less than a quarter of a pound to hundreds of pounds. In Central
America alone, there are dozens of varieties
Shortfin Corvina, Cynoscion parvipinnis: Photo courtesy Dean
Mitchell.
Although drums and croakers are
primarily saltwater fish, and therefore theoretically fine for use
in ceviche, James Peterson, author of
Fish & Shellfish (Canada,
UK), cautions against eating them raw. They often contain
parasites, he says, which is the general reason you don't make
ceviche with freshwater fish. Cooking renders the parasites
harmless, as does freezing for at least 24 hours at 0°F, but the
acid of ceviche does not.
Finding parasite-free, impeccably fresh
fish is the great challenge of making ceviche these days. Peterson
says he used to tell people to rush home with their fish and make
ceviche at once, but now says unless the fish was previously frozen
or you have some sure-fire way of determining that it is free of
parasites, freeze it yourself for at least 24 hours, slowly thaw it
in the refrigerator, and then start cutting limes.
In this country, drums and
croakers on the market include Atlantic Croaker, Black
Drum, Red Drum, Kingfish, Spot, Spotted or Speckled Sea
Trout, Weakfish, White Sea Bass, Orangemouth Corvina,
Yellowfin Corvina, Golden Corvina, Shortfin Corvina,
etc., etc. (Drums and croakers are totally unrelated to
either bass or trout, so there is simply no truth in
advertising in the fish world.) More of these varieties
come from the Pacific, and are more available on the
West Coast.
Whether any of these
species will make a ceviche that matches your childhood
memory, the intermediary freezing/thawing step (which is
outright heresy to many ceviche lovers) will probably
affect the texture in unexpected ways. But perhaps this
is what constitutes the ceviche of the new millennium.
• Known in Peru as Ceviche,
this dish is a national favorite, making use of the
country's incredible variety of super fresh fish and
shellfish. Ceviche dates back to the Incas, who seasoned
their fish with sea salt and aji (chile peppers) and
cured it in the acidic juice of tumbo, a tart tropical
fruit. The Spanish later introduced citrus fruits, and
lime juice became the acid of choice. To approximate the
taste of pre-Hispanic ceviche, reduce the lime juice in
this recipe to 1/2 cup and add 1/2 cup passion fruit
pulp, scraped from halved, fresh ripe passion fruits
with soft, crinkly skins. • Look for fresh aji amarillo
chile peppers in stores that carry Peruvian ingredients.
If you can't find them, use aji amarillo paste,
available @ any Peruvian market or section of your
supermarket.
RECIPES
Corvina with Garlic Butter
(Corvina al Ajillo)
Ingredients
fillet of Corvina
chopped garlic
butter
salt to taste
white pepper to taste
chopped fresh parsley
wedge of lemon
Preparation
Salt and pepper the fish fillet on both sides. Melt the
butter in a skillet and cook the fish until done, about
3 to 4 minutes on each side. Remove the fish and add the
chopped garlic. Cook gently over medium heat until soft,
but not brown. Place the fish on a plate and spoon the
garlic butter over it. Sprinkle some fresh chopped
parsley and serve with lemon or lime wedges.
Another recipe
Fish Salad Cooked in Lime Juice
Ingredients
- 2 pounds white-fleshed
skinless fish fillets such
as flounder, sole, or
Corvina (cod)
- Salt
- 1 cup fresh lime juice
(about 12 limes)
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 small clove garlic,
chopped very fine
- 1 or 2 fresh aji
amarillo (yellow
Peruvian chili), seeded and
chopped fine, or substitute
the canned aji
- 1 teaspoon chopped
parsley
- 1 teaspoon chopped
cilantro
- 1 medium onion, chopped
fine (1/2 cup)
- 3 or 4 lettuce leaves
- 4 ears of corn, cooked
and cut into 2-inch pieces
- 1 pound sweet potatoes,
roasted in the skin, peeled,
and sliced into
1/2-inch-thick rounds
- 1 pound yuca, peeled,
cut into little-finger-sized
slices, and boiled until
soft
- A few strands of yuyo
(a tangy seaweed, optional)
Preparation
1. Cut the fish into strips 1
1/2 inches long by 1/4 inch
wide. Soak the strips in lightly
salted water for 1 hour to
tenderize. Drain well.
2. Put the fish in a bowl and
fold in the lime juice
carefully. Add the salt, garlic,
and aji and refrigerate
for 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Just before serving, mix
in the parsley, cilantro, and
onion.
4. To serve, line a bowl or
large platter with the lettuce.
Place the ceviche in the
center. Surround it with 3
separate mounds: corn pieces at
the top of the platter, sweet
potato slices on one end, yucca
on the other. Garnish with the
seaweed, if using.
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